PLACES
TO VISIT WHILST STAYING IN THE CHARENTE-MARITIME, FRANCE::
Angoulême, Charente - The
12th century Cathédrale St-Pierre dominates this thriving
city. The ramparts offer a long bracing walk with views over the
Charente Valley. The Centre National de la Bande Dessinée
et de l'Image has a reference collection of French print and film
cartoons since 1946. Its museum presents cartoon personalities such
as Tintin, Asterix and Snoopy (tel.0545386565). Angoulême
used to be famous for its papermills. The Moulin de Fleurac at Nersac
has a museum and still produces rag paper in the traditional 18th-century
manner.
Aubeterre-sur-Dronne, Charente
- The chief ornament of this pretty village is the weird monolithic
Eglise St-Jean. Dug out of the white chalky cliff that gave the
village its name, some parts of it date back to the 6th century.
Bordeaux. We highly recommend a
visit to this glorious city. There have been massive recent renovations
and the excellent tram service means you can park your car on the
outskirts and ride into the centre for very little money. The old
city is very rich in architecture, the wealth testimony to a successful
trading history. It is a real joy to walk down some of the smaller
side streets and discover buildings adorned with beautifully crafted
stonework, wrought iron balconies and fabulous old doorways. We
found good quality and reasonably priced restaurants. Built on the
river Garonne, Bordeaux was a major port in pre-Roman times and
for centuries a crossroads of trade. This forward-looking town marked
by a rich history is the fifth largest in France and is centred
around a noble 18th-century core. Along the waterfront of this wealthy
wine metropolis is a long sweep of elegant Classical façades,
first built to mask the medieval slums behind. Adding to the magnificence
is the Esplanade des Quinconces, the Grand Théâtre
and the Place de la Bourse.
Recommended restaurants in Bordeaux:
La Tupina, 6 rue Porte de la Monnaie at www.latupina.com
as recommended by clients who ate there (Jan 06).
Brouage, Charente-Maritime is where
you can discover more about the shared history between Canada and
France at "La Maison Champlain". Open everyday from 10.30
to 12.30 and 2.00 to 6.00 (per Conseil General de la Charente-Maritime
march 2005). Cardinal Richelieu had a fortress at Brouage and it
was his base during the Siege of La Rochelle (1627-8) but its wealth
and population declined as the ocean receded.
Cognac, Charente. You will see
the telltale black lichen stains from alcohol evaporation on the
exterior of the buildings here. The towns orientation is still very
much based around the world famous distilleries and there are plenty
of tours to enjoy. The distillery Otard is in the 15th-16th-century
château where François I was born. The distillery was
established by a Scot named Otard, who ruthlessly demolished a chapel
in the process. However much of the Renaissance architecture has
been saved and can be enjoyed during the tour, which includes a
cognac-tasting.
Recommended restaurants in Cognac.
Cognac - La Courtine, parc François 1er at
www.restaurant-la-courtine.fr
as recommended by clients who ate there (sept 05).
Ile de Ré, Charente-Maritime
- St-Martin-de-Ré, the island's main village, is supposed
to be worth a visit. The island is rich in birdlife and boasts some
of the most expensive real estate on the west coast.
Ile d'Oleron, Charente-Maritime
is the second largest French island after Corsica and has some excellent
beaches and cycle tracks. Beware unlike the Ile de Ré the
causeway is free and can be busy in peak season.
Jonzac, Charente-Maritime is well
known for it's thermal springs. There is an indoor "Lagoon"
style swimming centre and close to this is a casino.
La Côte Sauvage, Charente-Maritime.
There is a beautiful drive through the Forêt de la Courbe
between La Palmyre (west of Royan) and Ronce les Bains along the
D25. There are lots of little tracks leading down from the main
road to the beaches. The beaches here are spectacular. They are
wide open to the Alantic and so are good for surfing. The water
is clear unlike the muddy waters of the Gironde. Beware of the traffic
in high season.
La Rochelle, Charente-Maritime a
commercial centre and busy port since the 11th century, has suffered
from a tendancy to back the wrong side - the English and the Calvinists,
for example. Indeed Cardinal Richelieu viciously razed the town
in 1628. The glory of La Rochelle is the old harbour surrounded
by stately buildings. The harbour is now the biggest yachting centre
on France's Atlantic coast. The Aquarium at La Rochelle is well
worth a visit. It boasts 10,000 specimens (www.aquarium-larochelle.com).
There are motor boat tours available to see the nearest islands
and Fort Boyard (www.inter-isles.com).
Marennes, Charente-Maritime with
its famous oysters. In the grounds of the château de la Gataudière
your children(from 4 years old) can scare themselves stupid on a
treetop adventure playground. It is better if your children are
stunted as pricing is by height - children of less than 1.4m cost
10€ (per leaflet 2005). The catch is children of less than
16 must be accompanied by an adult (www.gataudiere.com).
Meschers-sur-Gironde, Charente-Maritime.
The beach is on the west side of the village down a steep,
narrow road (you may want to park at the top on a busy day). The
water is not as clear as further west but it is great for small
children who just want to paddle and build sand castles. People
have enjoyed visiting Tina's bar where Tina (from Chicago) sings
most evenings and she invites other musicians to play (www.tinas-cafe.com).
Meux, Charente-Maritime -
there is an animal centre here.
Mortagne, Charente-Maritime - attractive
small port on the Gironde.
Pons, Charente-Maritimea
pretty medieval town, complete with castle keep and pilgrims‘ hospital.
At the Chateau d'usson now called Chateau des Enigmes there is a
puzzle to solve (www.chateau-enigmes.com).
Some people have enjoyed the Chateau and others disappointing relative
to what they paid. There is the Centre de Loisirs down on the river
(skirt round the south of the town on the main road D732 to Cognac
and it is just past the pilgrims' roundabout on the left) where
there is a childrens play area and you can hire boats. The tube
climbing frame proved very popular with one young lad and there
are pony rides for about 2€/10mins (end July 2005). There are
interesting walks around the town through ancient alleyways and
the gardens around the Town hall.
Recommended restaurants in Pons..
There is the excellent restaurant at the Hotel Bordeaux
for a fine dining experience. There was a fixed price menu at 15€
(2005) that was very good value (3 course no choice no wine). The
courtyard is a work of art. Formal environment.
The bar français for a very informal meal.
Fixed price menu 13€ (2005).
Recommended restaurants near Pons.
The Bistroquet at La Jard. Lunchtimes only. 10€
(2005) for 4 courses wine inc. Very good value for money and very
friendly.
Rochefort, Charente-Maritime. The
town was purpose-built by Colbert in the 17th century to be the
greatest shipyard in France, producing over 300 sailing vessels
per year. This maritime heritage can be seen in the Corderie Royale
(royal ropeworks) from 1670(www.corderie-royale.com).
We have been recommended to visit the old Naval Dockyards where
you can see the reconstruction of a frigate called "l'Hermione"(www.hermione.com).
Royan, Charente-Maritime. Badly
damaged by allied bombing at the end of World War 2, Royan is now
thoroughly modern in contrast to most other towns in the Charente-Maritime.
With 5 beaches of fine sand, called conches, it becomes very popular
in the summer. There are trips out to sea available (www.royancroisières.fr).
There is a Zoo at Royan with 1600 different animals. There is a
school at Royan for surfing, bodyboard, longboard, bodysurf - at
http://surfclubroyan.free.fr
.
Saint-Bris-des-bois, Charente-Maritime -
visit the Abbaye de Fontdouce (www.fontdouce.com).
Saint-Césaire, Charente-Maritime
is where you can visit a prehistoric centre (www.paleosite.fr)
- see if you can differentiate the visitors from exhibits. It was
conceived under the guidance of leading specialists - which was
probably a terrible mistake. The focal point of the exhibition we
are told is the remnants of some prehistoric person, there are some
films to watch and a few interactive things or at least they were
supposed to be. It is open each day from 10 till 7 in april, may,
june and september, from 10 till 8 in july and august and 10.3 till
6 in october and march (per Conseil General de la Charente-Maritime
march 2005). Alternatively there is very easy fishing at www.pisciculture-saintcesaire.fr.
Saint-Georges-de-Didonne, Charente-Maritime
- we prefer this beach to Royan.
Saint Léger, Charente-Maritime -We recommend you explore the beautiful forêt de Pons.
Visit the local Cognac, Pineau, wine, grape juice producers and
sample their goods. At Le Rustica Marie speaks good english and
many guests have enjoyed their fare. There is a Romanesque church
(play spot the service) and nearby the château with it's interesting
breeze-block annexe.
Saint-Martial-sur-Né, Charente-Maritime
- visit a farm where they manufacture foie gras (www.manicot.fr)
Saintes, Charente-Maritime,
a beautiful town steeped in art and history, was the capital of
the Roman province of Aquitaine in the first century. There are
museums, the Abbaye aux Dames, superb churches, a roman amphitheatre,
the arch of Germanicus amongst many other architectural treasures.
The town is lively with places open late at night. Not far from
the town are the châteaux de Panloy, de Crazannes and de la
Roche-Courbon. There are boat cruises on the Charente (www.moulin-baine.com).
Recommended restaurants in Saintes:
La Caravelle, 5 quai de la République, 17100
Saintes. tel 0546934565 Informal and friendly. Relatively good value.
Recommended restaurants near Saintes:
Saint Georges des Coteaux - LA FORGE
DE BACCHUS
7 ROUTE NATIONALE 137 (LA VALLEE) 17810 Tel: 05 46 92 25
60 sept 05 recommended by 2 couples
Saujon, Charente-Maritime - from
here you can catch an old steam train to La Tremblade - Train des
Mouettes (www.traindesmouettes.com).
People in 2005 paid 12€/head for adults for a return ticket,
the steam train was out of action and La Tremblade was disappointing.
St-Emilion, to most people the
appellation of a fine red wine, is a charming village in the middle
of the wine growing district. Its origins go back to the 8th century
when the hermit Emilion dug out a cave for himself in the rock -
useful place to recover from red wine hangovers. A monastery followed
and by the middle ages it became a small town. Recommended for a
visit.
St Maurice de Tavernol, Charente-Maritime-
not so famous for the wild orchids that can be seen here.
Talmont, Charente-Maritime. We
would recommend you have a quick stroll round this very picturesque
little village. The tiny Romanesque Eglise Ste-Radegonde was built
in 1094 on a spit of land overlooking the Gironde. The church has
a unique apse, designed to resemble the prow of a ship - which is
appropriate, since the nave has already fallen into the sea. A 15c
façade closes off what's left. Inside apparently are richly
decorated capitals, including a representation of St George and
the Dragon - We completely missed these.